Wednesday, October 27, 2010

How Small is this Town?

Today as I was walking home (look!, I'm writing a blog about something that happened recently, instead of several weeks ago!), I thoroughly undressed one of the repeat offenders who routinely yell "chineli!" at me and other nonsense. As I addressed him in very firm Georgian, he recanted everything he said and I had him back-tracking on his statements. However, honestly, I didn't take pleasure in half-way yelling at a 12-year-old Georgian boy. He's not the only one who does these things, but it definitely reminds me of why I want to move closer to work. My one-hour walk home definitely affords people the opportunity to stare and yell things at me.

In thinking about these incidents, I often consider how much safer Georgians have it (especially in a village, which Borjomi is not). First I think to myself, how often do they see me walking by that they aren't used to me by now, then I think to myself, how we Americans think of staring at someone as rude and why we don't usually do it. Looking back at my own childhood, I'm reminded of incidents of my precocious nature and how that got me in trouble. I remember flashing a light into a car once, and the driver of the car in return pointed a gun at me. I was only 6, but I definitely stopped flashing flashlights at people then. I also remember staring at people in my youth, only to be yelled back at in very aggressive terms like "what YOU looking at boy?!" or the equally aggressive stare-down plus head nod which usually, in my experience, is a precursor to a fight which usually involved guns or knives and unequal amount of opponents. I guess growing up in Echo Park and East Los Angeles is a lot different than growing up in Georgia. Although I guess if I grew up here, I would probably be worried about the Russians invading again.


Now, to distract you from this serious post, I would like to show you a picture that has me cracking up every time I see it:



Thursday, October 7, 2010

Borjomoba Pictures


Georgian Folk Song performance. The girls to the left in blue and grey are from California.

Very athletic Georgian dancing for guys. I know, I tried to learn, its crazy tough.

Georgian folk dancers in costume.

More costumed dancers


They had stands out where they made kikani, one of my favorite dishes. It's basically a dumpling with meat inside.

Is it cold here? Or am I just getting old?

I know I haven't written in a long time. I keep thinking I should write something. But then I get lazy and I forget. So instead I'm going to write a long post trying to hazily remember the past few weeks.

So in Borjomi, we recently held the annual Pan-Parks conference. It's a rotating conference, and it just happened to rotate to Georgia this year. The Pan-Parks organization is a confederation of National Parks that promotes wilderness in Europe. It has parks from all over Europe from Portugal, Finland, Italy, Bulgaria, etc... The cool thing about having the conference here is that representatives from every country come and I get to meet them. Even representatives from Rocky Mountain National Park came, and from the U.S. forestry dept. It was cool being one of 4 representatives from Borjomi Kharaguali National Park, and probably a bit confusing for everyone else. I'd never thought I would meet so many rangers from all over the world before. Peace Corps is definitely giving me a bunch of really interesting experiences.

I went to Tbilisi again, it's a monthly thing (hopefully). I don't want to go into the details because if you know me its the same drunken craziness that happens every time I drink with purpose (the only way to drink in my opinion). Needless to say there was lost phones, running from police, wandering around the city till dawn, and marriage proposals. Typical weekend in Tbilisi. I did enjoy the fact that when I bought a bottle of vodka at a bar/club, and offered shots to two Georgians, they put the bottle on their tab. Very kind. Although there was another scenario where a few Georgians had bought Jack Daniels for us and then they drunkenly left without paying. It was an awkward situation.

It was my birthday last weekend. It's also been getting really cold here. There's no heating in my apartment building, so it feels even colder in my room than outside. Not sure if I'm going to survive through the Borjomi winter. To celebrate my birthday I went horseback riding with a few friends. It was a fairly adventurous day with us climbing a wet rocky mountain and then climbing down. I thought I was going to die at several points during the trip. My horse even slipped a few times and that was pretty scary, especially seeing a 200 ft drop a foot away. But It was really fun, and as a souvenier I had a really sore ass for a few days. I also had an American Supra with a few friends and lots of wine. I've done these American Supra's (basically a dinner party with lots of wine + toasting) many many times. Sometimes for Americans, but mainly with the accompaniment of Georgians. I usually try to make something different every time, but I always feature my crepes, which has been a hit here in Georgia (courtesy of Teddy). Horseback riding + American Supra was Saturday, Sunday was the Borjomoba. This is a festival to celebrate the founding of Borjomi, where everyone in the village comes out for dancing and festivities and food and drinks. I'm not sure who sponsors these things, but there were many stands and everything was free! I drank from many bowls of wine (not a good idea then since I was hungover from the night before) and even ate a rabbit! It was delicious. I also went to a circus that was there for some reason and as I was leaving, the ringmaster pulled me in to participate in a performance. It was weird standing in front of hundreds of Georgians and having someone yelling instructions in Georgian. There was also a performance at the cultural center theater which was one of the most bizarre experiences I've had in Georgia yet. Basically it was a bunch of groups singing and performing Georgian songs and dances. Except some of the groups were from California, Norway, and England! The Georgians loved it! I think they always appreciate when someone tries to learn their culture, I know I get good remarks when I speak to them in Georgian. I got to hang out with some of the Americans after the performance and learned that they were from the San Francisco area and they've been performing Eastern European songs for a while but for most of them it was the first time to Georgia. I meet a lot of Europeans here, but seldomly do I meet Americans (except for PCV's) so it's always a treat to talk to them.

On Monday, my actual birthday my host family threw me a Supra. They invited this girl that has been coming to my house every now and then. They've been trying to get me to marry her, or something like that. Who knows, I might have already agreed; when I don't understand what someones saying to me in Georgian, I usually just say "ho" (which means yes) a lot hoping to not look stupid. I should be more careful about what I say. At the Supra was also the girl's mom. Which I feel was a definite sign they were inspecting me or something. On a side note, did you know that Mama in Georgian is Dad, and Deda is Mom, it throws me off every time I hear a child yell Mama! and then their dad comes over. So after this extensive weekend of partying, activities, and drinking, I feel very sore. It doesn't help that it's been cold. In the past, I could've done this easily and been fine. Now I have chest pains, soreness that lasts longer than I could remember, and other ailments that afflict the old. I also find myself telling people "you're so young, just watch, when you get my age, you'll know" in reference usually to people's optimism and hopefulness. I guess being old beats that out of you. Or maybe I'm too jaded for my own good. Hopefully I survive the winter.



Sunset on the Black Sea in Ureki. Where they have black magnetic sands which Georgians love to roll around in (for medicinal purposes).

Bridge in Borjomi that's lighted up at night.

Horse Convoy... I wasn't in back for long, my horse was kinda wild.

Many many bowls later.... (there's wine in there)


Borjomi Festival!